Showing posts with label underground dining. Show all posts
Showing posts with label underground dining. Show all posts

Jupiter Rising


Chocstar gave me a bell on Wednesday after two of her friends had dropped out of the date at The Secret Ingredient. Living nearby I was straight down to Horton’s place for a six course veggie Japanese dinner for fifteen bucks. Fair going for an impromptu Wednesday evening.


We wound off Newington green into the surrounding overgrown urban jungle; a mixture of medium density low and high-rise blocks brought to us by what is now the loving LHA. It was an exciting build up as we wandered around trying to penetrate the blocks set in perpendicular labyrinthine fashion.


We were booked into the second sitting at nine o’clock meaning that we would not be rushed at the end of our sei piatti or more appropriately, 6つの版, as the Japanese would have it. Having said that, the first sitters didn’t have to rush either as we all bunked up in the small living room together and chatted away until they had finished up and departed. We had been seated by about ten and along came the fayre:


Mixed Japanese crackers on the table to nibble until the first course arrived. It was a salad of fish and plum sauce. A combination of dried fish, sliced onion, sapped of their intense power, leaving a more subtle taste and cracking crunch and a chilled sour plum sauce. The tiny portions left me wanting and wondering.


Next came a plate that wouldn’t have been out of place horizontally in the back room of a heady house party, namely that it was a mirror but bedecked with more wholesome stuffs. A parcel of green beans and carrot batons tied with nori, a splayed open radish topped with what seemed to be lemon soaked Granny Smith apple, the sweet and sour balancing well and preventing the grim discolouration. Two green spinachy rolls with something else unidentifiable, but both fresh clean and well seasoned. Finally to end the ensemble a spinach leaf held a powerful wasabi laced grated daikon salad.


More comes; a warm potato baton and red pepper platter dressed with the Paunch and I decided was dashi, all served on elegant elongated ceramic platters.


Next – a sharing frame, yes a picture frame. This was the best of the six courses I thought. On it was a warm marinated mushroom, fragrant broccoli florets and a deep fried morsel bound with egg containing carrots various seasonings. It was at this point, as you can tell, that my brain was subject to overload and recollections become rather dim. But I do remember in the centre on the frame, where the hole is, a bowl of wasabi punctuated daikon a little less punchy that the version on the mirror course.


Now verging on full, having had in total about twenty good mouthfuls, we had a bowl of steaming rice another of exceptionally good and sweet miso and crunchy pickled cucumbers. Upon investigation Horton divulged that his miso was lacking in the paste department but was mostly the vegetable cooking waters from the previous courses. It was really spot on and it shows up the powdered supermarket sachet versions for what they are, imposters.


Pudding was the least inspiring of the six, Strawberry slices, chocolate and a sweet miso, which was interesting as a salty combatant to the sweet of fruit and chocolate and there was piping Sake unless we hadn't boozed enough.


Mr. Jupiter must spend on average six to seven hours cooking and preparing each Wednesday and he still had the energy to crack jovial anecdotes and genial quips with us after he had finished dervishing about in his small fridge-less kitchen. He told us that he got into Japanese cooking after stealing a book on the matter from his local library while bored in his early twenties….. A Cook, a Thief, don’t know if he has a wife or a lover but I salute him!

(Disclaimer: please be aware that my knowledge of Japanese cuisine is limited and may be chatting shit - excuse for lack of images is that i forgot my camera -lose)

Underground Supper Club

The most wonderful thing happens when you come across something that has been mulling around your head that actually exists and is more accessible than you had thought. For me Supper clubs are it!

The whole notion of announcing your dinner, designing a menu, sourcing the ingredients, finding a venue, getting willing helpers, hoping people will come, and not cocking it up is in some micro-way the same as having you own restaurant. With a lot less risk. If you think of all the chefs that you admire and have seen in the flesh doing what they do best ever wondered if you could do the same? You can and people do.

I got in touch with the now infamous Ms. Marmitelover via her blog The English can Cook soon after her first week in business. She welcomed my request to help immediately and off to Kiburn I went. Now on its fourth Saturday Ms. Marmitelover is transporting her diners to Mexico by way of Brondesbury. Other unique dining experiences such as Horton Jupiter’s in Newington Green proves the abundance.

(Marmites homely culinary HQ)

Many supper clubs are popping up all over the place, and long may they thrive. At a time when cash is tight, people are more knowledgeable about food and the abilty to quickly disseminate information via t’internet the climate is perfect for a move away from more traditional food experiences.

Its not that the proprietors of these supper clubs want to undermine the restaurant industry in some anarchic way but are increasingly finding that the reaction they get from the diner is that it offers so much more that just a more reasonably priced meal. Social exchange with like mined others, an insight in the home of others etc.

Being given a whole set menu designed by an enthusiast is, in my mind, vastly better than the tedium of glaring at monotonous bound menu with needless subdivisions that are based more on price and fashion with a keen eye for the profit margin. Also if you in someone else’s house being served by their friends and family who cares if the service is not attentive and timing is not too rigorous. The informality and personalisation irons out all the usual gripes of conventional dining.

Seek and devour your local supper club… feed the phenomenon!